Telnets' Total E-Slayer Conversion Guide - Slayer to E-Slayer|
Oct 02, 2009
This is by far the easiest, and for the most part, cheapest conversion of the bunch because you basically get everything you need when you buy the Slayer. All you need to do is decide how you want to configure it, and drop in your electronics.
Since youíre starting with a Slayer, there isnít much about the chassis you need to know other then its exactly the same one thatís used on the Revo, its just silver, and not blue. The resulting wheel base is within Ĺ an inch of the Slash, so you have more choices for aftermarket bodies then the longer chassis Revo or E-Revo (See ďBody OptionsĒ for more info).
The first step to actually converting your Slayer is to remove all the stuff that makes it a nitro. Engine, Fuel tank, exhaust, etc. all need to go. This should pretty much leave you with just your wheels, suspension, body posts, and transmission. After this is done, you will need to install your electronics. The easiest method for doing this is simply picking up a conversion kit, such as the Tekno one found here. Itís not the only kit on the market, but this one gives you everything you need, itís easy to work with, and the instructions are quite clear.
With it comes an enclosed receiver box which you can use, the problem with it however is that the Slayerís right front wheel will rub on it if youíre turning and the suspension is compressed. I would actually suggest you just use some good Velcro or Shoe-Glue and stick the receiver to the side of the right steering servo instead. If you donít like it there, just find a spot for it :)
This kit also re-uses the clutch bell setup on your Slayer. While it works well and I personally liked it, some donít and switch it out for a Pinion gear. If you end up doing this, you may have to shim the motor mount with some washers or use a long shankíd pinion in order mesh with the spur gear properly depending on the shaft length on the motor you choose.
For the ESC, there is a small plate that mounts to the top of the transmission. Itís works just fine, but I found it a little high for my liking. I ended up just glueing/velcroing my ESC to the top of the servo box lid instead. It worked just as well.
The battery tray is pretty straight forward, installed where the fuel tank was before and comes with straps long enough to hold down a 6S Lipo, or two 7 cell NiMHís securely. Not much else to say about this item.
The stock transmission is a forward only 2 speed system which has no reverse, and cannot brake the car (which is why you have mechanical brakes). Since your converting your slayer to electric, you have a few options to consider.
Although itís not necessary to lock the 2nd gear, itís very easy to do and I highly recommend it. You can find instructions for doing this here.
- Leave it the way it is: You donít NEED to do anything to your transmission if you donít want to.
- Install a manual reverse kit: This will require you to install a few extra gears into your transmission as well as a servo & link arm which will manually shift your truck into reverse. Itís not the most efficient way of getting reverse, but it certainly adds a level of ďcoolnessĒ to your setup :) You will also require a 3rd channel on your transmitter to operate the shifting servo.
- Lock your transmission into 2nd gear: Your electric now, and locking your transmission in 2nd actually has a number of benefits:
- Its less stressful on the gearing/motor since it doesnít shift from a low/high gear anymore
- Thereís less maintenance since you donít need to adjust the shift timing
- It enables motor driven reverse without installing a manual reverse kit
- You can completely remove 1st gear form the transmission making it a little lighter.
- You have the option of using a center differential kit (which you cant do if you install a reverse kit) and/or rear brake kit
- Gives you the option of removing the whole manual brake assembly and using the motorís braking features.
There really isnít anything you need to change with the stock suspension. The only thing I can really think about is that your car will probably be a little lighter now, so you may want to consider getting slightly softer springs. Any other changes are up to your own preference, or track conditions
Ballpark cost of a good Motor and ESC combo will run you about $350. The electric conversion kit is around $100 and a new body should you need one is approximately $30, which makes this conversion close to $500 over and above the cost of the original Slayer.
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