E-Slayer Body Options
What chassis length you ended up using for your conversion will determine which bodies you will be able to choose from. Now, this isn’t a complete listing of bodies that physically fit each chassis, its just a reference for you of which CORR style bodies are available at the time of writing this guide. New ones are developed all the time, so take a look around and pick one that works for you.

Slayer or Revo (Short Chassis) Conversions	Revo (Long Chassis) or E-Revo Conversions
Traxxas Slash or Slayer body	Team Associate SC8 Body
Proline Desert Rat (Including carnage edition) body	Proline Volkswagen Baja Bug (Long Chassis)
Proline Hardcore Body
Proline Volkswagen Baja Bug
HPI Blitz Maxxis ATTK-10 Body
Losi Strike Body
Team Associate SC10 Body
JConcepts Truth
JConcepts Dare
JConcepts Badjr
Pretty much anything that fits a Slash/Slayer

As you can see, there isn’t much selection for the Longer Revo or E-Revo Chassis. That’s not to say there isn’t anything else that fits (I know a few non CORR style bodies that do) or that the other bodies cant be MacGyver’d to fit, it just means there isnt a lot of choice for almost direct fit bodies is all.

Motor/ESC Options
I wont be saying much about motors or ESC’s in this section because A) everyone has their own preferences, B) What one person wants, may not be what another wants, and C) I don’t want to recommend a product, then you buy it and it sets your house on fire and you try to blame me :)

What I will say is that the ESC and Motor you choose is not a place to try to save a buck or two. Expect to spend between $300 and $450 for a decent 1:8 scale motor and ESC combo, these trucks are quite heavy and with 4WD, they need a lot more torque to get moving then say a 2WD 1:10 slash would. Most people end up going with a Castle Creations Mamba Monster (Either the 2650KV or 2200kv versions) combination, or a Team Novak 1:8th Scale motor/esc combo in the 6.4 turn range. That’s what I used on my first conversion and the truck skipped across grass like a speedboat on the water. There are lots of options out there for Motors and ESC’s so take some time and do a little research before you start your project.

Tires & Wheels
Tires are pretty standard for short course trucks. You can pick up practically any 2.2/3.0 tire and use them just fine. As implied in the name these tires have a 2.2” outside diameter and a 3.0” inside diameter. The reason for this is to keep the scale look of the tire on the outside, but offer plenty of clearance for the suspension system on the inside. To date, there are a number of tires on the market. Consider the different types of surfaces you will mainly run your E-Slayer on and select a tire accordingly.

Now on to the wheels... Unfortunately you’re choices are limited right now in this department. The Slayer/Revo/E-Revo all use 14mm Hexes, and currently there are only 2 direct fit options: The Traxxas Slayer Wheels, or the proline Slayer Beadlock (either regular or split Six versions). You can of course get creative and use Hex adapters, and possibly different size wheels, but were going for the scale CORR truck look so if you go that route your on your own to do your own research.

Revo/Slayer Chassis or E-Revo Chassis... Hmm?
While I can't go over reasons to convert your Revo/Slayer/E-Revo over to an E-Slayer, (That’s up to you if you do!), I can explain some of the differences between owning and running the Revo/Slayer metal chassis conversion and the E-Revo plastic chassis conversion.

Keep in mind I've convtered and run each type of truck. This comparison is based off my own opinions/findings and not meant to imply any downfall is not “fixable” with some tinkering or creative thinking... it’s just a general comparison between each conversion.

Revo/Slayer Metal Chassis Conversion

	Pros	Cons
	Having manual/mechanical brakes takes the stress while braking off the motor resulting in cooler running temps on short tracks or while bashing	The ESC & Receiver were awkward to mount. I found using the mounting plate from the conversion kit made it sit too high for my liking
	If you have a 3rd channel, setting up the manual reverse is pretty neat	Due to the weight of the batteries and motor, the truck has a fairly high center of gravity. I found that it rolled quite easily on turns
	There is defiantly a “wow” factor when people see the truck without the body on. It looks extremely complex, especially with manual brakes and reverse installed	It’s hard to balance the truck evenly since batteries are on one side and the motor is on the other. This means NIMH’s makes the battery side heavy, but using Lipo’s make the motor side heavy
	The truck is practically bullet proof	I found with the balance issues, I would nose dive on smaller jumps that I didn’t have time throttle up in order to keep the truck level
	If you convert a Slayer, or use the Revo Short Chassis, you have many more options for body styles	The transmission is fairly solid, but can end up with stripped/broken teeth from the brushless power. Changing to metal gears adds another $100 to the price tag of the conversion
	The truck is quite heavy, which is something I really liked	If using the manual brakes and manual reverse, it makes cleanup and maintenance of the truck more tedious
	Having the option of either manual brakes and/or reverse, or locking the 2nd gear and using the motor for both gives you more tuning options	It is heavier then using the E-Revo chassis, which means more power is required to keep it going and results in shorter run-times

E-Revo Plastic Chassis Conversion

	Pros	Cons
	Splitting the batteries up and putting them in the trays balances and lowers the center of gravity which reduced rolling the truck in turns by a lot	Having the longer chassis limits you to 1 or 2 body styles at the time of writing this (assuming you don’t hack apart a slash size body or use a 3.3 body and run with open wheels)
	You do not need to buy an electric conversion kit for this project. An instant cost savings for you!	The “cool” factor of having manual brakes and/or reverse isn’t there anymore if you like that sort of stuff
	The wheelbase is a little longer then the Slayer/Revo (short chassis) which makes handling a bit better	If you use the battery compartments, You’re limited to 3s Lipo's and under (There are a few 4s ones that fit on the market though) and non-hump pack NMiH's, and should be buying them in pairs to distribute the weight evenly
	The battery trays, sealed receiver box and covered gearing make the truck easier to clean and less maintenance	Although the truck is extremely durable, it wont be as tough as the Revo/Slayer conversion
	The transmission has motor brakes and reverse built in which means no extra servos or manual link arms to worry about	If you don’t already have the E-Revo to convert, then this could end up being one of the more expensive conversions in the end
	The transmission is already brushless ready with all metal internal gears	If you get bored of it, you can't switch it to a nitro (well, not on this chassis anyhow)
	This conversion is the cheapest out of them all if you already own the E-Revo
	Being lighter then the Revo/Slayer conversion, it will yield longer runtimes

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